Comprehensive Guide to Achieving the Perfect Fit for Your Shirts

Comprehensive Guide to Achieving the Perfect Fit for Your Shirts

While color and fabric are often the first things we notice when shopping for a shirt, the fit is arguably the most important aspect. A well-fitted shirt is both comfortable and flattering, making all the difference in your overall appearance. Here’s a comprehensive guide to understanding how your shirt should fit, especially when it comes to dress shirts.

How Should a Dress Shirt Fit?

Unlike casual shirts, which are often sized in general categories like small, medium, and large, dress shirts require a more precise fit. A dress shirt, typically defined as a woven cotton, button-fronted, collared shirt suitable for wearing with a necktie, should be fitted with care. Here are seven key areas to focus on:

1. Collar
The collar of a dress shirt should fit snugly around your neck without being too tight. You should be able to comfortably fit two fingers between your neck and the collar. Remember, a new shirt’s collar can shrink slightly after the first wash, up to about ½ inch.

2. Shoulders
The shoulder seams of your shirt should align with the edges of your shoulders. This is a critical area to get right, as a misaligned shoulder seam usually indicates that the shirt won’t fit well elsewhere.

3. Chest
Your shirt should have enough room in the chest to allow for free movement without being too loose. The fabric should not pull or crease across the chest, even when your arms are in motion.

4. Sleeves
Shirt sleeves should provide enough space to move comfortably. If you notice “accordion” wrinkles at the elbows, the sleeves are too tight. Ideally, sleeves should extend about half an inch past your wrist bone, allowing the right amount of cuff to show beneath a jacket. Note that new shirt sleeves can shrink by up to 1 inch after washing.

5. Cuffs
The cuffs should be snug enough to stay in place but not so tight that they are uncomfortable. A cuff that fits correctly won’t slide more than half an inch beyond your wrist bone, even if the sleeve length is slightly longer.

6. Waist
The waist area of the shirt should have enough room to prevent any gaping when you sit, but the overall fit is a matter of personal preference. Some men prefer a slim fit that contours close to the body, while others opt for a looser fit, especially when wearing higher-rise trousers.

7. Length
A dress shirt should be long enough to stay tucked in, even during movement. Sport shirts, which are often designed to be worn untucked, are typically cut shorter.

Types of Dress Shirt Fits

Dress shirts come in various cuts to suit different body types and style preferences. Here are the most common fits:

1. Classic/Regular Fit
The classic fit, also known as regular fit, is the standard shirt cut. It offers a relaxed fit with plenty of room in the torso, often featuring pleats along the back yoke. This fit is ideal for men who prefer comfort and a traditional silhouette.

2. Slim/Tailored Fit
Slim fit shirts have a trimmer cut, with less fabric in the chest and sleeves. They typically eliminate pleats and may include darts in the back for a more streamlined appearance. This fit is popular among younger men but may feel restrictive on broader frames.

3. Stretch Fit
Shirts made with stretch fabric offer the sleek look of a slim fit without the restrictive feel. These are great for men who want a fitted silhouette but need more flexibility in their shirt.

4. Made-to-Measure
For the perfect fit, consider made-to-measure shirts. This option allows you to customize every dimension of the shirt to your exact measurements, resulting in a shirt that is both flattering and comfortable. Once your pattern is created, reordering becomes hassle-free.

FAQs

Should dress shirts be tucked or untucked?
Dress shirts are traditionally designed to be tucked in, as they are cut longer to stay in place when tucked. Casual shirts, on the other hand, are usually shorter and intended to be worn untucked.

Do you have to be skinny to wear a slim fit shirt?
Slim fit shirts are best suited for men with slim or athletic builds. If you have a broader frame, you may find them too restrictive.

Does New & Lingwood offer tailoring for ready-to-wear shirts?
Yes, New & Lingwood offers free sleeve shortening on ready-to-wear non-sale shirts, although collar and shoulder dimensions cannot be altered.

By paying attention to these details, you can ensure that your shirts not only look good but also feel comfortable and appropriate for any occasion.